Take A Break In Style At The Black Boy, Headington

Headington High Street is instantly forgettable. A run of chain stores and charity shops which could be found in any town across the UK. But turn right towards the Old High Street and within seconds you are transported into an olde worlde village complete with cobbled streets, ringing church bells and beautiful scenery.

At the heart of this oasis of calm just ten minutes from the centre of busy Oxford, is The Black Boy, a gastropub-come-boutique-hotel where the emphasis is firmly on style.

The rooms at The Black Boy are a subtle grey with vivid and boldly coloured artwork adorning the walls, all the work of local artists. The furnishings in the rooms are quirky and clearly great quality. There’s not an inch that hasn’t been carefully considered. It was with great pleasure as that we discovered, as we explored our room for the night, that even the teabag bowl was special – crafted by a local sculptor and packed full of treats including Jelly Beans, biscuits, and the finest selection of teas, coffees and hot chocolates you could ask for. And should you fall in love with a particular piece and want to take it home, there’s a design page on the website where you can find links to all the featured artists.

But while the rooms at The Black Boy are certainly a draw, it’s the restaurant that brings visitors in from across the country. Established nine years ago by business partners Chris Bentham and Abigail Rose, both of whom have trained under culinary legend Raymond Blanc, the concept of the venue is a back-to-basics Gastropub serving a generous selection of traditional British dishes and pub classics cooked to the highest standards, but at reasonable prices. All meals are complemented with artisan bread and dipping oils, but the dishes, while well presented, avoid the annoying recent trend of fussiness that leaves diners wading through acres of rocket and seeds before unearthing their meals.

There’s a ciabatta menu available Monday to Saturday at lunchtime, but if you’re staying the night you really need to book yourself a table and enjoy a meal from the à la carte (and do book – it gets very busy). I was delighted to see no less than four vegetarian starters were available – homemade soup, artichoke risotto, pan-fried halloumi and a freshly

made potato, cheddar and apple latke (the crayfish risotto was also marked with a V but am assuming that was an oversight!) – and my carnivorous companion was hard-pushed to choose between the Coarse Country pate and crispy pancetta served with a poached egg and pea and broad bean salad. But choose we did, and his pate and my latke, which came with a deliciously sweet pickled beetroot garnish, did not disappoint.

Be you a fish and chip fiend or a pie and mash lover, the main courses really do offer something for everyone. The Black Boy is all about turning fine dining on its head and offering pub classics with a gastro twist. Again there were four vegetarian options, and not just your standard, mushy, something-that-resembles-squashed-kidney-beans burger. There’s a halloumi burger, a Thai green curry, tarragon and wild mushroom gnocchi, or pesto fettuccine. I was drawn by the latter but asked our server’s opinion. He recommended the curry but I went with my instincts anyway. I wish I’d followed his guidance because as I saw the curry served to a delighted neighbour, I got serious food envy. And while my fettuccine was enjoyable, it was slightly on the oily side. There’s a lesson there kids – don’t ask for advice if you’re not going to take it!

Meat man decided to order the slow-roasted pork belly which came with an incredibly fragrant garlic and thyme mash, seasonal greens and cider jus. His review: “That might just be the best pork belly I’ve ever eaten”. High praise indeed.

Stuffed, and rather squiffy after a bottle and a bit of Pinotage, I opted for a sorbet dessert which he made just a bit more room for the dark chocolate brownie which came with homemade mint chocolate ice cream. Both were the perfect way to round off a thoroughly enjoyable dining experience. The atmosphere was bustling and relaxed, the service was attentive, and the food was flavoursome and well-presented.

After a drink in the bar we retired for the night, to sleep off some calories and make room for the breakfast that came included in the price of the room. Again, all freshly cooked to order by Chris in the kitchen.

The Black Boy is a perfect place to use as a base if you’re planning on visiting Oxford, but it’s also a great venue in its own right; and if you’re looking for an escape from the city for a weekend away this hidden gem has got everything a food-lover needs without leaving the building.

• For more information, to view the menus, or to book a room, visit www.theblackboy.uk.com.