Sri Lanka: A Dream Trip Tailor-Made For Teens

While there have been many memorable holidays for our family of four over the years, the last few have been somewhat underwhelming. Once they get past a certain age, teenagers are no longer interested in doing the same things as their parents, and our urban twosome, Dylan, 18 and Freddie, 15, have struggled to enjoy our summer pursuits.

Staying with friends in Valencia in 2014 was “OK, I suppose”. Camping in Dorset in 2015 was torture (it did rain a lot, to be fair). Ibiza in 2016 was “Meh”. So in Spring 2017, with the ‘last big family holiday’ approaching, I realised we’d need to think a bit more carefully about where to spend it.

We sat down as a family and listed our priorities. The boys wanted activities, especially safaris and scuba diving. I wanted ancient civilisations and palm-fringed white sandy beaches. My other half listed exotic food (he’s a chef – it’s all about the food). We all wanted to see elephants and monkeys in the wild. Marbella clearly wouldn’t cut it.

Contacting Points South, a travel company specialising in Southern Indian and Sri Lankan holidays, I gave them our list and budget. The verdict was an 11 day trip to Sri Lanka, staying in four different locations, with driver and hotels included. “We’re going to Sri Lanka” we informed the boys. “So no lying in bed and moaning about being bored – we’re visiting temples and hanging out with elephants and you’re going to love it”.

The day after our arrival in the capital Colombo, where we stayed at nearby Negombo’s Goldi Sands Hotel, our friendly driver Douglas took us to visit the famous fish market. The sights, sounds and smells were intoxicating. The huge octopi were terrifying, but thankfully no longer living. There were fish and seafood of every kind and hue being hauled in from the nets as the boats moored, drying on sheets on the beach, or freshly laid out in rainbow displays on the counters. The whole place was an assault on the senses.

Being in Sri Lanka is like living life in high definition. Colours are more vibrant, and everything seems to throb with life, culture and variety. Our drive up the coast took us past so many unfamiliar sites… mini–shrines on the roadside to Shiva, Buddha and the Virgin Mary (mainly Buddhist, Sri Lanka has a rich diversity of religions). Lush green countryside and coconut palms. Women expertly carrying produce on their heads. Huge Buddhist statues looming up on all sides. Cattle wandering around in the middle of the roads and stray dogs everywhere. Tiny tuk-tuks and motorbikes weaving in and out of the traffic, packed with entire families. Everyone seems very laid back. No road rage, it seems, in spite of some dramatically wayward driving.

Eventually, we reached Wilpattu game park, where we were to spend two nights… in a treehouse high above the jungle. It was hot and sticky inside and the air con temperamental, but the jungle sounds outside as we clambered into bed after a curry dinner made it thrilling, especially when we heard an elephant thrashing around down there (sadly no sightings).

A five am start to go on safari was a shock to the system, but the boys – not exactly morning people – were up and ready. As the sun came up and our jeep weaved through the dense jungle with its twisted vines and spooky noises we spotted snakes, a sloth bear, macaques, purple-faced lemurs, eagles, exotic birds and peacocks all around us. Still no elephants, but we got to feed sandwiches to some enthusiastic monkeys, so that was a ‘tick’.

After a visit to the ancient capital of Anuradhapura (4th Century) with its stupi, the giant burial domes that rival Egypt’s pyramids in size and historic significance, we were driven to Nilaveli on the North East coast, famous for its unspoilt white sand beaches fringed with palmyra and palm trees. The Nilaveli Beach hotel was relaxed and friendly, and our bungalow spacious, if a little basic. One day we had monkeys jumping noisily on our roof, like something out of a kids’ storybook. The boys were in heaven – the buffet meals stretched to chips and there were waffles for breakfast. Much as they love curry, it’s a bit much first thing in the morning.

We had three blissful days in this idyll, swimming in warm seas, snorkelling in the coral reefs and flopping in hammocks by day then sipping cocktails and working our way through the amazing buffet at night, from lobster and barbecued red snapper to black pork or sour fish curry and daal we could never get enough of. The whole place felt like paradise and it’s hard to believe that the surrounding villages, now thriving, had been all but decimated by the Tsunami in 2004.

The boys fulfilled a long-held ambition to go deep sea diving, first having an introductory lesson, then diving off nearby Pigeon Island, a marine reserve. Both were naturals and spotting baby sharks, clown fish, crabs and starfish down there was a thrill they won’t forget. In fact, Dylan’s talking about running a diving school one day. That’s the great thing about travel – it broadens their horizons.

On our travels again, we stopped at stunning Koneswaram Hindu temple in Trinco where the expressive statues were colourful and bewitching. Our driver, keen to satisfy our elephant craving, took us on short safari at Minneriya. Elephants move up and down the elephant corridor depending on the seasons, in search of water and fresh grass, so they’re not always easy to find. But this time we struck gold when we rounded a corner and a giant bull elephant came lumbering over to take a look at our jeep. For me, it was the high point, especially when we followed him to the watering hole and found all his elephant mates, including baby ones. My elephant obsession has not abated.

After another early start to visit the enormous granite buddhas at Polonarruwa, we waited till the cool of the day to climb Sigirya rock. No mean feat, there are hundreds of steps, straddled by two giant lion’s paws hewn from the rock, guarding the entrance. Very Indiana Jones. There are also frescoes to see on the way up. Dizzy and thrilled to get to the top we stayed a while to explore the city’s ruins, watch the monkeys (so many monkeys) and take in the amazing views of misty mountains and lakes in the distance as the sunset. It was other-worldly and magical, like something out of the Hobbit.

One day we had to take shelter from an epic downpour (the only one all holiday) in a roadside shack, where the owner made us delicious coconut roti on a ramshackle stove, served with tea and jaggery — lumps of unrefined sugar with a rich caramel flavour. Sitting there drinking sweet tea and watching the cascading rain with a few locals was one of my favourite moments.

On our last day we visited the gob-smacking cave temples of Dambulla, a sacred pilgrimage site for 22 centuries. There are multiple caves packed with 157 ancient Buddhas, all ornate and beautifully painted, that Sri Lankans past have gifted to humanity in order to guarantee themselves a place in Heaven.

The ceilings are painted with intricate figures, the colours now faded by antiquity. This part of the trip was simply breathtaking.

Everywhere we went, every drive or walk, was full of things to see, unforgettable sights and sounds and the people were friendly and proud to show off their country. The whole holiday was an assault on the senses. The boys were respectful and awe-inspired when we entered a temple full of chanting devotees, rich with the smell of incense. They liked learning about the country and its history and got so much out of the holiday – and they weren’t the only ones.

Because Sri Lanka is a relatively small island, every site and destination is just a few hours’ drive away, meaning you can pack a great deal into your time.

Our holiday was tailor-made for teens (but also for us) and it ticked every box. The boys were enthusiastic because they participated in the plan, so apart from the occasional ‘no, not another temple’ moan, they engaged with a culture very different from their own. Having a carefully thought out schedule, a kind and knowledgeable driver and planned activities for most days made our family holiday in Sri Lanka the trip of a lifetime.

• For more details of bespoke holidays in Sri Lanka and Southern India contact Points South at www.points-south.co.uk. COST PER PERSON: £920 including accommodation (based on two people sharing a room) and breakfast, taxes plus transport with English speaking guide. Flights are not included.