In The Swim Of Things At Thames Lido

Emerging from the water a cold blast of wind hit my face before I felt a gentle dusting of what felt like confetti cover my head. I looked up from the pool and gazed into the sky – It was snowing.

My body warm but my face freezing from the arctic climate I drew a deep breath and continued with my swim. There can be few things more exhilarating than swimming beneath the snow on a crisp winter’s day.

Had I escaped to the Alps or Scottish Highlands to enjoy this most unique of experiences? No, not at all. In fact I’d made the short journey out of town to Reading for a Day Spa visit to Thames Lido, an oasis of indulgence found just a few minutes from the city’s railway station.

Thames Lido is the result of a painstaking and sensitive 3-year restoration of a disused pool on the banks of the Thames. The original pool was designed and built by engineer John Bowen at a cost of £4890. It first opened to the public in 1902 as a Ladies Swimming Bath and is believed to be the oldest surviving outdoor municipal pool of the early Edwardian era. With no windows around the pool itself, it was built to allow Edwardian women the opportunity to bathe in privacy and was originally fed from the Thames itself.

The pool was closed in 1974 but in August 2004, as a result of a public campaign, the building was awarded Grade II listed building status.

In October 2017 the pool reopened and the site now also houses a spa, treatment rooms and a café.

Having booked in for a Spa Day with a friend I was enjoying a swim before a plunge in the bubbling hot tub that overlooked the pool. After that there was time for a quick sauna before heading up to the treatment loft for a much-needed massage.

There’s a strange system when it comes to changing at Thames Lido. Several changing-come-shower rooms line a narrow corridor, with just one toilet in the disabled room. Once changed you have to return to reception and give them your worldly belongings. With such space you can’t help but wonder whether a little investment in some lockers might be a good idea – and a few more toilets! However, robed and ready to go, we ascended.

My therapist Zee showed me into the treatment room from which I could hear the faint swish of water lapping the edge of the pool. A strange sensation indeed and coupled with the warmth of the room
when I closed my eyes I could almost imagine I was at a beachside retreat. Almost.

After an extremely relaxing and reviving rub down it was time to head for lunch to the poolside restaurant and tapas bar.

We were greeted with a smile and handed a set menu for lunch offering an exciting and innovative selection of dishes. We were not offered the a la carte or tapas menus, which was a shame as it would have been nice to see what was on offer, but the selection on the set was tempting enough. Starters are a choice of Baharat spiced venison, marinated sardine with a Russian salad, or a beetroot and caraway soup. My friend and I both ordered the soup. We were offered the option of artisan bread to accompany it and eagerly accepted.

For the main course I ordered wood roast cauliflower with gordal olive oil dressing and almond purée, and my friend chose the wood roast Duroc pork belly served with lentils, roast carrot and a quince alioli.

Despite the speed with which the dishes were served there was no rush in the presentation. Each and every one was a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach. We wiped every last dot of soup from our bowls with our delicious bread, and enjoyed every last morsel of our mains.

We were led to believe that a drink each was included, and who can refuse the offer of an Aperol Spritz after a bracing swim in the snow? We languished over our two courses and after a thoroughly enjoyable meal returned for another dip in the hot tub and sit in the sauna before reluctantly heading back to reception to request the return of our bags.

Ready to leave and feeling full of great food and fresh air, we checked out at reception, but were surprised to be presented with a bill for lunchtime drinks, bread and service (despite leaving a tip on the table). It seems drinks are not included, and when our server enthusiastically suggested he bring some bread for our soup (he actually offered a second basket once we were done but thankfully we had declined) he had failed to mention that this was a paid extra too.

The food was divine, the service friendly and the setting relaxed and bright. But this is, ultimately, just a café, and this grappling for extra pennies felt petty, and left a sour taste in the mouth after an otherwise thoroughly enjoyable day.

• To book a Spa Day, swim or treatment at Thames Lido visit www.thameslido.com.