Escaping to the fells at The Black Bull, Sedbergh

When Belle visited The Black Bull in Sedbergh, Cumbria, we knew it was pretty good. From wonderful rooms with great views to an epic, innovative yet classic menu in the restaurant, it seemed to have it all.

Fast forward a few months and it seems we’re not the only ones who think that, after the Black Bull was included for the first time in the prestigious Estrella Damm Top 50 UK Gastropubs awards 2020, going straight in at number 26.

If you didn’t know quite how good it was, you could potentially overlook The Black Bull. Tucked away in Sedbergh, right on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales, it’s a modest building from the outside. Walk through the big old doors and it seems like quite a nice pub. But it’s when you spend a bit of time at this coaching inn and dining room and start to notice that it’s a cut above.

The rooms above the pub are named after the fells that surround the Black Bull. Ours was ‘Crook’, which could be seen from the window of our rather luxurious bathroom complete with glass wall, rolltop bath and walk-in monsoon shower.

The room itself was a mix of cosy and chic, complete with low lighting, a chaise longue to relax in after a long day tramping around on the hills. The carpets and blankets are made locally, along with the mugs, photography, tea bags and coffee, while the toiletries are made for The Black Bull by The Sedbergh Soap Co.

This love of provenance extends to the kitchen, which is all about local, seasonal food yet with the added twist of Asian influences. You’ll find classic British flavours and combinations and think you know where you’re at with it, then you’ll notice an unexpected ingredient that piques the curiosity as well as the tastebuds. Like the Miso and Turnip Kimchi in the Aubergine starter, or the Furikake (a type of Japanese seasoning) with a wild halibut dish also on the starter menu.

On our visit my friend went for that aubergine starter  – slices of aubergine combined with crunchy turnip, tangy salty kimchi and umami-fuelled miso. I started with slow cooked beef rib with polenta, IPA cheese sauce and Nasturtium Caper – an indulgent mix of rich meat, savoury cheese and a piquant Nasturtium caper.

Inspired by our starters, while a simple Sunday roast of Howgill Hereford Beef, Howgil Herwick Lamb or wild partridge was tempting, we couldn’t help but try some of the main courses that offered the same crossover of cultures. 

I opted for Red Gurnard with mussel, clam, bouillabaisse and seaweed – a balance of delicate fish and fragrant bouillabaisse, while my friend went for wild venison with billberry, parsnip and kale.

The savoury dishes were special enough, but for me the desserts at The Black Bull were superlative. So much so that we tried three. Salted caramel, pecan and banana, each element shining in its own right, yet coming together in a cacophany of textures as well as tastes. Goat’s cheese parfait with pecan nut, quince and pear – almost a cheeseboard turned into a dessert; and quince, red wine, chocolate and blue cheese – another playful, imaginative twist on a final course. All showing the hallmarks of a kitchen that knows what is doing and is confident enough to push the boundaries when it comes to what we expect.

Add to that an interesting wine list, along with additions of unusual tipples like a sparkling mead and you’re reminded that The Black Bull is far more than any old gastropub. It is up there with the best. Number 26 to be precise!

[Disclosure – Belle About Town was invited for a complimentary stay and dinner at The Black Bull in Sedbergh]