Adrenalin-Fuelled Fun in Madeira
The choice was between tobogganing headlong down a steep street or heading into a stiff wind on a whale-watching boat trip around the volcanic island of Madeira, known as the Pearl of the Atlantic.
This crazy toboggan ride is one of Madeira’s most famous and quirky attractions, dating back to the 1850s. It’s like a land-based gondola trip aboard a wicker sledge on two runners.
Two pilots or Carreiros, smartly dressed in white with straw hats, steer and brake their passengers on a white-knuckle, bone-jarring two kilometres ride on the outskirts of the capital Funchal.
Our boat trip was even bumpier. We battled choppy seas the colour of molten lead for two hours into the teeth of a strong easterly wind.
‘It’s very lumpy going,’ agreed skipper Nuno as he powered our RIB Zodiac uphill, into white horses, then slammed down into the trough.
Sighting whales and dolphins was our goal, to see these magnificent and social animals in their natural habitat.
Our guide said there were 28 species of cetaceans, including bottle nose and spotted dolphins and pilot, sperm and fin whales.
With life jackets buckled we were warned to stay seated until the boat slowed for a sighting. ‘Don’t touch, kiss or feed,’ we were told.
Two look-outs on headlands scanned the seas for tell-tale signs of foaming seas, birds overhead, a glimpse of a fin or thwack of whale tail fin before it dives, disappearing for 45 minutes.
A crackle on the two-way radio alerted the crew to change course.
I couldn’t resist a ‘Thar she blows,’ as a jet of water rose up between us and the shore. And another. And a fin. ‘Probably a mother and her calf from the size,’ suggested our guide Joao. ‘And they’ll be feeding.’
This was undoubtedly the highlight of my trip to this sub-tropical island where we hiked to the1800 m. summit of a fertile land carpeted with flowers. Since Madeira was discovered thanks to the 15th century Prince Henry the Navigator of Portugal it has become a magnet for tourists and cruise passengers enjoying average year round temperatures between 16C and 24C.
I stuck to forest walks while gung-ho friends scrambled and trekked their way through river gorges, abseiling down waterfalls and jumping into rock pools on a canyoning trip that left them buzzing with adrenalin.
Mountain biking was another thrill-filled activity.
No trip to Madeira would be complete without mentioning their favourite son.
Britain has Andy Murray, Serbia has Djokovic, Menorca has Nadal and Madeira has Christiano Renaldo. There, I’ve mentioned him.
So Madeira has everything: famous footballer, fragrant flowers, fabulous food, mellow Madeira and other wines, wild activities, lazy leisure and luxury, crazy customs, kind weather and a potent sugar cane cocktail called Poncha.
- For information visit: www.madeiraallyear.com. We flew British Airways between London Gatwick and Funchal, Madeira. We stayed at the Albatroz hotel – rooms from 140€ per night, and Vine Hotel in centre of Funchal, rooms from €110 in low season.
- Whale watching boat trip €49.50per adult; child (6-11 years old) €34.50; under five free.
- Canyoning 3-hours (+pick up) €60
