Winter Warmers at The Crown at Bray

The Berkshire village of Bray shot to fame in the 90s thanks to a certain experimentally-minded chef. But it’s not just snail porridge and marmite mash that bring gastronomes to the area, for The Crown at Bray proudly boasts its status as the only true pub in the village. But it’s not just pints and pork scratchings at this friendly local, there’s a menu worthy of rivalling many of its Michelin-starred neighbours.

It was a gloomy Monday evening when we visited The Crown at Bray to celebrate a special anniversary. Leaving the wind and rain outside we cosied up in a corner next to the fireplace, about to be lit for the first time this year. We were welcomed heartily by staff behind the bar, and enjoyed a gin sour and dark and f’rum the darkside aperitif with a bowl of juicy Nocellara olives to kick things off.

The menu at the The Crown at Bray is compact yet inviting. Starters include a classic prawn cocktail and tempting spatchcock with walnut pesto, but we chose the warming fish soup and delicate mushroom parfait. Both were presented beautifully and tasted even better. The parfait was decorated with crispy shallots and the contrasting textures were a treat to devour. The soup was seasoned to perfection and light enough to give a warming start as we eagerly anticipated our hearty mains.

Hearty portions

Forget frugal, meals at The Crown at Bray are generously portioned and exactly what you would hope for The succulent grilled Tamworth pork chop is served with mushroom sauce and grilled leeks, perfectly complimented with a side of harissa tenderstem broccoli. The roasted squash risotto is topped with crispy capers and a creamy mascarpone, again a tantalising blend of textures that delight the tastebuds.

Our host Donna, who has reinvented the venue as a locals-focussed gastropub recommended a delicious Montepulciano which perfectly complimented the flavours of the meal.

Satiate your second stomach

While we enjoyed our quiet corner, locals gathered around the bar and fellow diners filled neighbouring tables. There is a real sense of community at The Crown at Bray, giving a more relaxed feel for a night out than other more formal restaurants in the village. Each has its place, but if you’re after a more laid back dining experience when visiting the area, this is the place for you.

It is said that the phenomenon of a second ‘dessert stomach’ – where despite being satiated you can still make room for pudding – is actually a real, scientifically proved thing, and yes, dear reader, having experienced it ourselves we can testify this is true. Despite deciding we could absolutely not consume another morsel, one peek at the dessert menu and its dark chocolate parfait brought about a magnificent new appetite, and one that was indulged more than adequately!

By the time we finished our beautiful petit four anniversary treat – a touching gesture from the staff – and headed back into the blustery night we were warmed inside and out. The Crown at Bray is a charming, traditional pub that just oozes character and warmth, and we can’t wait go go back.

• For more restaurant reviews, visit our Out & About section here.