Whetting the Appetite for Sri Lankan Cuisine: Karapincha
What’s Vauxhall got going for it?
South of the Thames it boasts main line and underground stations, a busy bus terminus and spy city as the home of MI6.
But, let’s face it, Vauxhall is not a thing of beauty. Kindly described as rough around the edges, up and coming, relatively affordable, this fast-changing riverside district feels like a place to travel through on your way to somewhere better.
I was hopping between mainline train to Victoria tube on my way to theatre-land to see Spitting Image. Too early to spend two hours and a small fortune on West End prices for a pre-performance supper we explored Vauxhall for a no-frills alternative.
Tah dah!
Just around the corner from the mainline station, Market Place Vauxhall is tucked under the arches and boasts a dozen stalls selling authentic street food from around the world – Italy, Turkey, Greece, Thailand, India, Mexico – plus a bar bearing the legend Stop Thinking Start Drinking, and a DJ booth.
The only cuisine neither of us had ever tried was Sri Lankan so we bee-lined for Karapincha, a mini restaurant for grab-and-go food. We opted for sit-and-stay, plonking ourselves down on bench seats at a long table.
We were in for a veggie treat, although lamb and chicken are also available.
All of the dishes at Karapincha are home-made, from the roti and mayo to the spices and curries – everything is chopped, cooked and simmered the way founders and twin sisters Vasanthini and Dharshini Perumal were taught, faithfully following their mother’s old recipes.
Smiley manager Noushi explained the merits of Kothu Roti (stir-fry made with chopped roti bread, vegetables, eggs flavoured with a blend of Sri Lankan curries, £10) and Savoury Hopper (rice and coconut milk pancake crispy at the edges and fluffy inside containing a jack fruit curry, £11).
Wholesome, fresh, unpretentious and hearty, was my companion’s verdict. And he’s a discerning diner.
I loved the finishing touches of finely chopped spring onions and pomegranate- what dish isn’t jazzed up with those pretty pink jewels?
Hard to resist – so we didn’t – was a shared Sweet Hopper (less good value at £8) with Nutella and strawberries.
Karapincha’s group of neighbourhood cafes and small kitchens is set to expand beyond its three sites in Spitalfields Market, Elephant & Castle’s Mercato Metropolitano, and Market Place Vauxhall with a Canary Wharf bricks and mortar site coming soon and more new openings to follow.
The twins promote ‘home-cooked’ comfort by filling their small kitchens with home cooks, not chefs. With their mum’s influence in everything they do and family values at the heart of the business, the sisters want to create an extension of that family, inviting people from all walks of life who share a passion for cooking and respect for traditions, to come and learn alongside them.
Vasanthini and Dharshini aim to help those with limited opportunities and nurture enthusiasm for soul food – whether they’re housewives, mums returning from maternity leave or students – into skilled cooks.
Their modest Market Place venue in unlovely Vauxhall has whetted my appetite for Sri Lankan foods.
- Karapincha, Spitalfields Market, Market Place Vauxhall, @karapincha_kitchen
