Sky High Seafood & Sangria at Cavo, London
Summer (when it finally comes) brings out all the fun stuff when it comes to food and drink, especially in London. Al fresco lunches and dinners, bottomless brunches, rooftop bars, and all the holiday feels that remind you you don’t always need to get on a plane to have some fun.
And now a brand new restaurant slap bang in the centre of town is bringing us pretty much all of those in one place – and a rather lovely place it is too. Cavo is a new restaurant at Tottenham Court Road’s Outernet building, putting you right at the centre of the action, yet in an oasis of sleek calmness where you can take a breath, enjoy excellent food and soak up central London from a vantage point that’s pretty much unrivalled in this area.
The restaurant itself is a bright, airy space, with floor-to-ceiling glass allowing you to gaze over the hustle and bustle while you tuck into their Mediterranean menu. On top of this, they’ve launched a glorious new 60-cover roof terrace with more of those views over Bloomsbury, Covent Garden and Soho, where you can tuck into their fresh food that will transport you to the Med without leaving London.
If the rooftop terrace wasn’t enough, you can tuck into a new Seafood and Sangria brunch either inside or out on the terrace. Brunches are ten-a-penny these days, but the idea itself is something a bit different and having tried and tested it, Cavo’s Seafood and Sangria brunch has got the Belle About Town seal of approval as a lovely way to wile away a few hours.
When we visit on a Saturday lunchtime the British weather isn’t quite delivering on Mediterranean-style sunshine but it very much doesn’t matter as we slide into an expansive booth inside to hide from the rain whilst enjoying the same views we’d get from the terrace. We’d heard mixed reviews on Cavo so wait with bated breath to see how things would get going, but are pleasantly surprised to find service warm and welcoming and pretty attentive.
The set brunch menu begins with a tapas style selection of fish-focused starters to whet your appetite while you get started on either a carafe of sangria or fizz. Mackerel carpaccio is an utter delight, drizzled with quality olive oil and a sprinkling of sea salt. Pretty little choux buns filled with spicy mussels are decadent and delightful and a reminder that yes, this is a central London interpretation of the Med, not a rustic beach café. A beetroot hummus served with crispy bread to be used as a scoop, is a great addition, packed with sweet earthiness cut through by a green harissa.
They’re a great opening act, but it’s the Cavo seafood platter we’re waiting for. A platter of crustaceans placed lovingly in front of us, raised up on a stand so we can admire the collection of hot langoustine and lobster tail, along with mussels and Mazara prawns. There are no razor clams when we visit, but in their place is a sprinkling of clams which will do just fine, thanks very much. A few oysters again remind us that this is a special occasion kind of place. It’s a great mix and the selection of garnish sauces do exactly as they should – emphasising flavours without overpowering. The punchy burnt garlic one is my favourite, but a mignonette and citronette bring the citrus that balances out the richness of a whole plate of shellfish.
We’re convinced it’s all downhill from here. Are there many desserts that can improve on such a treat? Cavo’s, it appears, can. A Basque cheesecake is possibly the best I’ve ever had – potentially beaten only by the famous cheesecake from La Vina in San Sebastian, and I’d have to revisit both to make a final decision. It’s smooth, rich, light, airy, and with all the vanilla, nutty, buttery, cheesy notes that it should have. The burnt top is slightly less pronounced than some, but it’s not a problem. I could eat a slice of this every day until I die. Yet Cavo’s play on a crumble is also a hit. It’s a clever creation, and a play on a classic crumble. Fruit compote is layered with a light, moussey foam, and the crumb sits underneath. It’s more a dessert than a pudding, if that distinction makes any difference, and it’s as moreish as the cheesecake.
By the time we finish our eating extravaganza, the clouds have parted and the sun’s peeking through, allowing us to retire to the terrace for our final glass of sangria. Like the interior, it’s stylish without being too fussy, with plenty of space to enjoy the moment. On a sunny day, this space will be much-needed, as there’s no doubt Cavo will be a hit this summer, but on our day we have it to ourselves, making it the perfect final chapter of what has been a great experience.
Rooftop terraces and bottomless brunches may be nothing new, but Cavo has done a good job of making this their own, with great food and exquisite views to boot. And judging by this visit, organisational issues and a question mark over the level of service seem to have been addressed, making this one to try this summer, come rain or shine.
Cavo’s new Rooftop Terrace is available to book any day or night of the week (weather permitting) for Cavo’s signature style of Mediterranean dining and hand-crafted cocktails. The Seafood & Sangria brunch is available from 12pm-4pm every Saturday & Sunday from £65 per person (including full set menu and one carafe of sangria or fizz per person). To book visit cavorestaurant.com
