Serge And Sparkles: A Culinary Treat With Jewellery Thrown In
It’s not often that I get to combine two of my favourite things – Michelin star dining and jewellery. So I was delighted to hear that jewellers ChloBo were hosting the launch of their latest collection at Serge et le Phoque at The Mandrake Hotel this week.
This restaurant – the London outpost of the Michelin starred venue in Hong Kong – has been the subject of some serious fanfare since it opened, and I couldn’t wait to try it out – while also getting a sneak peak at ChloBo’s newest collection, Cherebella SS18.
Creator Chloe Moss, who was inspired to create her first pieces while backpacking in Bali, has gone on to win celeb fans including Cheryl and Fearne Cotton. And while her latest collection finds inspiration slightly closer to home (Devon) it was full of the spiritual chakras that are supposed to bring balance.
My favourite was the Purity Set – two delicately handmade single bracelets bearing lotus charms. Chloe told me: “The collection reflects the vital energy that emerges when we take the time to balance ourselves, breathe deeply and focus on the physical aspects of ourselves that we want to nurture. If you want to reconnect with the world and refresh your energy, this is for you.”
Given Chloe’s spiritual influences, the exotic, slightly spa-like setting of Phoque was perfect for her first launch in four years.
After a brief welcome we took our seats in the restaurant, which is elaborately decorated with foliage and looks out over a palm-tree lined terrace. Surrounded by fronds, it was easy to forget we were minutes from one of London’s busiest streets. And we weren’t the only people taking advantage of the jungle vibes – after I spotted a loincloth-clad male model posing for a photoshoot on the terrace.
At least, I’m pretty sure that wasn’t part of the launch entertainment…
But it definitely gave us a comical distraction while we were enjoying our starter of focaccia with parmesan tapioca and mussel karashi.
When I saw tapioca on the menu, I was expecting a dish more at home on a school canteen table. But what we had instead – thankfully – was a crisp square of bubbles that popped in our mouths. This was followed by a beautifully prepared scallop with violet artichoke, anchovy and yuzu kosho.
Unfortunately – like the paired wines which were offered liberally during our lunch – I had to give this course a miss due to being seven months pregnant. But luckily the restaurant staff were accommodating enough to rustle up a replacement of green asparagus, burrata, mizuna and truffle. Light and delicious, this served as a good palate cleanser for our next dish – pollock, broccoli fiolao di crea zzo, paris mushrooms and cockles. This was easily my favourite dish of the menu. The fish was robust and yet delicately prepared, bursting with flavour straight from the sea.
Next was the welsh lamb with cauliflower, sesame and chorizo – or in my case a vegetarian option of samphire risotto, morels, king oyster, mushroom and buckwheat with braised endives. This in itself was a wonder, purely because I would have never expected a dish made from endives to compare to a non- vegetarian course. But after polishing it off, I can honestly say I didn’t feel hard done by, and by the time our desserts arrived – a rich chocolate tart with plum salt served with an outsized cream macaroon – I was in a pretty happy place.
The final course – a bright green, zingy sorrel sorbet – was the perfect way to finish off the meal as we prepared to head back into the outside world.
I always think a set menu like this is an interesting way to experience what any restaurant thinks are the best combination of its offerings. And Serge et le Phoque didn’t disappoint.
As my partner and I left we agreed we’d be back to make our own choices in the future. I just hope our loincloth clad friend makes a repeat appearance too…
