Masterchef Winner Alex Webb on Park Lane
It’s been a rollercoaster couple of years for Essex-born Masterchef winner Alex Webb.
Having wowed the judges enough to take the top spot, he spent the first part of 2022 taking over Number One Park Lane restaurant at The InterContinental opposite Hyde Park in London.
Having served British-themed sharing plates on the terrace to great acclaim, Webb has now opened his own restaurant just next door, the eponymous Alex Webb on Park Lane, and it does not disappoint.
Vibrant and welcoming, the peacock green walls and mirrored recesses, as well as a huge mirrored wall at the back, give an airy and bustling feel to the room. Music plays loud enough to enjoy and is more upbeat than neighbouring venues, giving a party feel rather than stuffy restaurant vibe.
We’re seated in a booth beside the mirrored wall, blending a sense of privacy with inclusion as we people-watch fellow guests arrive.
Alex Webb on Park Lane is not a quick bite venue – although they do offer a two course theatre menu for those just passing through – it is an experience to be savoured. Both a four course and and seven course menu are on offer, at £75 and £110 respectively, and these can be accompanied by either a wine or cider flight.
The dishes champion the best of British produce with some international influences inspired by Alex’s travels, as well as some nostalgic flavours from his childhood.
We waited a while for our first drink – almost fifteen minutes – but having then enjoyed a glass each of Hattingly English sparkling we picked our options for the four course treat, making sure to include Webb’s Masterchef-winning main of pan seared trout finished with a mussel and caviar cream sauce, which is served with a mini potato fish pie topped with caviar and parsley powder, and also the white chocolate and passion fruit dessert served with passion fruit pearls and an English sparkling wine sorbet that prompted judge Gregg Wallace to proclaim Webb had “covered yourself in glory” when he served it in the final.
But first for an unashamedly cheesy hors d’oeuvre of a choux pastry profiterole filled with creamy truffle cheese, served on a cheddary shortbread and topped with flaked parmesan. Quite simply the most delicious mouthful of food I’ve tasted all year.
Starters went down a storm, and as Webb circulated round the room, explaining dishes and serving sauces, there was a sense of private party in the venue. The personal touch is everything here, with staff explaining the origins of dishes, and nods to family ties and childhood favourites everywhere. Even the bread is served with a poem Webb’s grandfather used to read to him. Though be warned – having been advised by our charming sommelier that this was printed on rice paper, and edible too, we spent an awkward couple of minutes pulling paper from our teeth and wondering how we should explain the nibble marks round the edges when they came to clear the plates…
Starters – a lobster toast, and a sweetcorn-fuelled festival on a plate – were a dream. Mains were tasty, but lacked the panache and wow factor that started the meal with a bang. They were good, just not as amazing as the starters – an occupational hazard of setting the bar too high?
But when dessert arrived it came with a bang, and the award-winning passionfruit creation was everything we hoped for and more.
Our server Jemima and sommelier Gulrukh added to the enjoyment of the evening, and it was clear that staff work well as a team and there’s a genuine affection and respect between them and Webb, a rare sight to witness at a Park Lane restaurant.
The wine flight was full of tasty and varied choices, but to describe it as a pairing doesn’t quite sit right. With a choice of four dishes for each course the items can’t possibly complement each one individually – the red with the main, for example, we were told was fabulous with the steak, but as we had the trout and the celeriac, it didn’t work so well as a pairing. But that’s a small issue of semantics, perhaps sticking to the term ‘flight’ as described by staff, rather than ‘pairing’ as suggested on the menu, could better explain what’s on offer.
Alex Webb on Park Lane has only been open three weeks, and perhaps could do with a little tidying up around the edges, but that comes with time and overall it really does promise big things for the London dining scene.
This isn’t just a meal, it’s an experience. Webb has brought a show-stopping menu to an established location, and has proven he is more than worthy of that Park Lane address.
For more information, to view the menus, and to book, visit the Alex Webb at Park Lane page on the Intercontinental hotel website.