Lillie Langtry Relaunches In Style
Back in the day a pub would be judged on the excellence of its ale – draught bitters, stouts and lagers in sturdy tankards or straight glasses.
But now it’s the turn of a decent wine list, plus inventive cocktails shaken, stirred and poured into delicate flutes and coupe glassware to entice customers.
The new look Lillie Langtry pub in Fulham scores well on both fronts. It’s a proper old fashioned pub: warm, welcoming and lively. And on offer are some great old fashioned drinks and dishes.
We kicked off with the Lemon Collins – gin, soda, lemon syrup – a Tom Collins that’s tart enough to temper any sweetness, moreish. Potentially dangerous.
This south west London boozer, a few steps from West Brompton tube station, offers lots of outdoor space – far too bone-chilling to investigate on a freezing February night. Inside was cosy and comfy with long leather banquettes, a massive skylight for daytime light and show-stopping chandeliers for nighttime vintage grandeur.
Highly polished dark wood furnishings, rich fabrics, heritage hues for walls and many gilt framed pictures – including a portrait of Lillie, famed socialite, stage actress and mistress of the future King Edward VII – complete the picture.
Craft beers and local cask ales are still on offer alongside reimagined classic cocktails: Maple Pecan Old-Fashioned; Jalapeño Margarita; Blood Orange Spritz; Salted Caramel Espresso Martini. There are low and no alcohol options rather than their rocket-fuelled counterparts for sober patrons.
On the dinner menu we found a twist on a 70s classic – gammon and pineapple. This cured bacon chop was salty and succulent, topped with a fried Cracklebean egg and tempered by fresh pineapple and chilli relish, plus a side of fat chips and salad garnish.
We added a tasty side dish of purple sprouting broccoli with toasted almond to hit our five a day.
As a starter we’d shared another reimagined 70s hit: a crab, crayfish and avocado cocktail with Marie Rose sauce, spring onion and orange. It was crisp and fresh and delicious.
Our second starter lacked the flavour hit we’d expected. Smoked haddock croquettes stuffed with creamy truffle hollandaise, paprika and lemon were on the bland side for our taste.
With so much retro food Granny Smith apple crumble and custard was an obvious choice for a comfort pudding. The apples stayed slightly tart and al dente to complement the buttery crisp crumble and vanilla custard.
The low lighting may be too dim for some (I needed my phone torch to read the menu) but the overall atmosphere was friendly and welcoming, with excellent service. Other diners seemed happy with their choices, including two guys relishing no-nonsense bangers and mash accompanied by pints of Guinness.
- Belle was offered a concessioned visit for the purposes of reviewing. This review is an honest reflection of Belle’s experience.
- To view menus or book a table, see the Lillie Langtry website here.
