Jamaican British Fusion at Wood & Water

Where can you go right now that is cosy and cool to experience a fresh spin on a familiar and contemporary British menu? Wood & Water is the brainchild of former Miss Jamaica April Jackson who, having grown up in Jamaica and resided in France and New York, has created dishes packed with unique flavours and textures.

Nestled in Brixton’s buzzing Coldharbour Lane, the interior décor balances elegant and industrial, with sleek, bottle-green metro tiles lining the walls, cool marble table tops and exposed brick. There are distinct areas within the intimate restaurant: Cosy dining area at the back, then a cocktail lounge with high tables alongside the restaurant’s bar, and also comfortable lounging sofas with a people-watching aspect near the entrance.

We ordered cocktails from an exciting cocktail menu which definitely celebrates the best of Caribbean rum, amongst other spirits. ‘Three Little Birds’ is an attention-seeker of a cocktail, served ‘aflame’ and with a sustainable wheat straw, if you want a straw that is. Or why not try a twist on a classic:  ‘Pimento Old Fashioned’ – made with Plantation 5yr Barbados, pimento and chocolate. Exciting and potent indeed.

The chef was lightning-speed fast, so I had barely made a dent in my cocktail when the starters arrived: Potato Croquettes filled with slow-cooked goat meat, served with plantain ketchup and Goat Cheese balls with pumpkin, beetroot rose and walnuts.

Can vegetables look sexy? Yes they can, and they do at Wood & Water. It must be dark magic because I also devoured cavolo nero and charred baby gems like they were a dessert. Plantains with honey ginger glaze and pineapple salsa just plain spoilt me.

These came with Wood & Water’s signature dish: Pan Seared Duck Breast with jerk glaze, roasted sweet potato purée, wilted greens, rum soaked plums and toasted hazelnuts. I don’t even know where to begin describing the flavour party on my tongue. Was this the most interesting duck dish I’ve eaten to date? Yes.

My guest tucked into a Roasted Poussin with pumpkin velouté and Yorkshire pudding. Equally tasty, and he didn’t waste any time in finishing it. Poussin what?

Now, what always gets top marks from me? Portion sizes. Larger portions worry me as I feel I won’t be able to enjoy a three-course menu and the multitude of flavours that come with it. Not here. You are served stylish, smaller plates and so really savour each dish, add on a dessert and still walk out with a spring in a step after your food orgasm. 

Whilst waiting for the desserts, I was praising the music list in my head, as it definitely added a great deal to the cool ambience of Wood & Water. A seamless blend of reggae, 60’ and 70’s funk and soul, and hip-hop.

Dessert time! Mine sounded like a short poem: Banana Bread with crème patisserie, dark chocolate and rum caramel. My guest went for a perfect winter dessert, in my humble opinion: Baked apple with oat crumble, cinnamon and coconut ice cream.

I felt adventurous after the first cocktail and wanted to sample another one. A Favela Chic was my choice and it was made with Abelha organic cachaca, plum wine, chamomile and bubbles. Refreshing, I can see this one enjoyed on summer eves. Oh summer, where are thou?

We left Wood & Water to the tones of ‘You can ring my bell’ by Anita Ward and as a Belle of Belle About Town, I’d definitely ring the Wood & Water bell again. 

The venue is open for dinner, drinks and Bottomless Brunch on the weekends. For more information visit: Wood & Water

  • Since moving to London in her twenties, Zuzana accidentally developed something of a multiple personality career disorder: From radio broadcasting days at BBC World Service to the world of magazines at the former IPC Media publishing house. After leaving the corporate world behind, she could be found at the photo shoots as a make-up artist or in the recording studios as voice-over artist. These days she uses her make-up artist background to talk and write mostly about her favourite subject: Beauty. Her other favourite subjects are gender equality, every colour ever invented, portrait artists, photography, Marvel, red wine and the importance of humour.

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