Feeling The Love at Beso, Covent Garden
Beso is Spanish for kiss.
And from the body language of the young couple at the next table of the Moorish restaurant of the same name a kiss was certainly on the menu.
Blonde Leanne and bearded James held hands, laughed and flirted as they sat beneath a striking Art Nouveau picture of two figures locked in a sexy smacker.
On another table a woman on her own was happily reading a book over her cup of coffee, others sipped cocktails in this casual newly opened Covent Garden bar and eaterie.
The atmosphere is friendly and welcoming, thanks to a jolly manager and smiling waitress. But of course it’s the food that counts.
The menu has been devised by co-owner and chef Khalid Dahbi. He left his native Morocco to train as a chef in Switzerland before working at Michelin-starred Parisian restaurants. He later joined Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s and has also worked at London’s Gaucho and Bibendum.
This is his first London restaurant, and he’s teamed up with award-winning former journalist, Eyup Can Saglik, who has left the political turmoil of his native Turkey for safer shores.
They’ve picked a great location: Covent Garden, corner of Shaftesbury Avenue and Neal Street, ideal for theatre goers. Styled as a neighbourhood restaurant it’s open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and cocktails.
We resisted acclaimed cocktails and dived straight into a three course dinner.
You never need to leave Beso hungry. Starters are easily enough for two, even if you go veggie. We had smashed broad beans on sour dough. A smattering of chilli and a squeeze of lemon gave the dish a tangy Middle-Eastern twist.
My friend ordered Welsh lamb chops with smoked aubergine. It might seem an odd combination, but tasted fine. I chose succulent duck with prunes, bulgar wheat and toasted sesame, accompanied by delicious roasted carrots with cumin, plus a fruity, robust organic wine from Spain.
And New Year resolutions (forget Dry January) were cast aside when we plumped (probably resulting in plumpness) for two yummy desserts. Don’t have pudding if you need to run for a bus afterwards but if there’s time to amble enjoy generous portions. We had rhubarb with rosewater and white chocolate panna cotta. Sublime
Perhaps the rhubarb counted for one of our Five a Day.
And then there’s the Beatles room.
The Fab Four dined in the basement back in the 60s and there’s a black and white blown up photo on the wall to prove it. They used to write songs on napkins in what was then a steak house after recording sessions for BBC radio at the nearby Playhouse Theatre.
Overall the décor is daring, black and brick, original artworks, vintage metal pendants plus comfort in the tan leather banquettes. And the reviews so far are promising.
The loving couple next to us are booking for Valentine’s Night. At their favourite table beneath The Kiss.
