Discover Hidden Decadence at Bandra Bhai

WHEN an invitation offers ‘spectacular cocktails, delicious spirits, fine wine and some unmentionables’ there is no way I am turning it down.

So off we trot to trendy Fitzrovia in search of its hottest new drinking den, Bandra Bhai, but when we reach the address the bar simply is not there. Nowhere to be found. We double and triple check that this is the spot, I scan for hidden cameras.

Eventually I throw myself on the mercy of a lovely lady at Pali Hill restaurant, on the spot where Bandra Bhai should be, and she gives me a knowing smile.

Yes, she says, this is the right place, but no, she says, this is not it.

I stare blankly and she subtly nods her head towards the back of the restaurant where a concealed staircase finally leads us down to a super stylish basement bar.

With its retro Seventies décor, it’s a very weird and totally wonderful looking speakeasy, decorated with fringed lamps and faded Bollywood film posters which instantly transport you back in time.

According to our brilliantly well-informed waitress, the sleek antique brass tables and covetable gold barware pays homage to India’s risqué smuggling dens – although some people tell her it reminds them of their granny’s front room!

Either way you see it, it’s an enticing place to indulge in some unusual cocktails which each seem to have a tale to tell. Somewhat overwhelmed by the unfamiliar menu, we happily let her guide us.

Her first suggestion, Disco Inferno – cardamom vodka with mango, chilli and lime – was a no-brainer. Come on, who wouldn’t want a cocktail that’s served in a glittering gold disco ball?

A request for something more manly yielded a Spiced Jaggery Old Fashioned, which was a heady mix of whiskey and chat masala. If these drinks sound like liquid curries, trust me they really are much more delicious than that.

The bar snacks are heartier and far superior to a predictable bowl of nuts. Mangalore Buns and Crab Sukkah were utterly delicious and I could have eaten ten more, while the Old Delhi Chicken Tikka was almost perfect but a bit spicy even for me (and I like it hot).

With fiery tongues, we had no choice but to order another round, and this time mine came served in a gold pineapple! I know!

Jungle Love is a mix of spiced rum, fresh mint, rose liqueur, orange and lime. Highly, highly recommended. Cognac shaken with celery, almond and pineapple make a Gabbar Singh Side-Hustle and I was less convinced about that one, although by this stage I may not had the most clarity of thought. Or vision.

It’s a brilliantly fun venue I will definitely be returning to, and if you like a super stylish speakeasy it’s well worth seeking out – even if you have to solve a riddle to find it.

  • Nadia Cohen

    As mum to a pair of cheeky twin boys, Felix and Harry, Nadia is mostly very tired. And sometimes she’s grumpy and very tired, but that doesn’t stop her attempting to have a life beyond sterilising and pureeing, even if that means she has been spotted strolling through the Grazia office with a Cheerio stuck to her bottom, or accessorising her fabulous Vivienne Westwood vintage with a smear of dried porridge. She loves lounging about in the sunshine with a cocktail (those were the days) and hates smug yummy mummy types offering their unwanted opinions on her sons’ snacks, schooling and snot.