Aranella at Chapel Bar, Islington

With a 10pm curfew in full force, a lot of the fun has gone out of evening meals, but we Brits are nothing if not inventive.

Which is why, in these crazy times, bottomless brunches are the new dinner. And what’s not to like? You can have a boozy afternoon out and still be home in time for Strictly.

But at Aranella, which has just taken up residency at the uber trendy Chapel Bar in Islington, they do brunch a bit differently.

You won’t find any eggs or smashed avocado on sourdough cluttering up this menu. Inspired by the flavours of Southern Italy, there are rich pickings including fresh tortellini with creamy mushroom and truffle, as well as pumpkin and mozzarella arancini balls.

The indulgent steak and meatballs were cooked to perfection, and the pumpkin was roasted until it had almost turned to caramel.

But for me the star of the show was without question the caponata – a thick and slow cooked veggie dish of aubergines, tomatoes and capers.

I’ve tried endlessly to perfect this at home but when I asked our waiter for some tips he revealed that he is sworn to silence. The secret recipe has been passed down to the Sicilian chef Alessandro Rotta from his mother.

And even I know better than to mess with a Sicilian boy’s mother.

This was a setback, but luckily we were quickly distracted the generous supply of bottomless bubbles – which includes Prosecco, Aperol and Elderflower Spritzes  – and flow freely for two hours.

The offer of two courses and unlimited prosecco or cocktails for £35 per person is on Wednesday – Fridays 5pm-10pm and Saturday – Sunday 12pm to 10pm.

Once lockdown Take Two is over, the large terrace is Covid safe, well heated and protected from the elements so you can socialise with people outside your bubble.

And if you do manage to get that caponata recipe, please pass it on.