All Hail The Humble Vegetable, at South London’s Omni
The expanding vegan food scene has been packed full of mock meats of late – many which are tasty and deserve their place on the menu – but it is always refreshing to come across an establishment that is going against the grain. Step forward Omni.
Based in Peckham Rye, south London, there isn’t any seitan, pea protein or soya mince in sight. Instead in this restaurant, the vegetable is king.
This intimate plant-based eatery is all about small, tasty plates that take influence from around the world, and play around with in-season vegetables in what is clearly an inventive and experimental kitchen.
We went to check it out on a Saturday lunchtime, and settled into our seats in the unassuming venue, minutes from both the common and the high street.
We opted for the ‘All In’ menu (£40 a head), a set menu of nine plates, curated to complement each other in every aspect from flavour and texture, to density, and cultural influence. And with the menu changing monthly, there is no chance of boredom if you happen to become a regular.
Beautifully presented dishes were brought out one, two, or three at a time, in considered combinations that demonstrated the chef’s commitment to getting everything just right. They were also perfectly spaced to give us time to enjoy, take a breather, and be ready for the next.
Stand-out dishes were the cheung fun (rice noodle roll) with peanut and sesame topping and leek treacle, and simple though it sounds, the green beans with mint and chilli.
Omni: Food to enjoy together
Our waitress was the perfect mix of attentive and discreet, and well-versed in the dishes, and the atmosphere relaxed and homely.
By the end we were well-fed and full, but without that bloated feeling that more processed food tends to induce. This thankfully meant we had room to share a plate of three mini chocolate brownies, cooked to perfection, with miso ice cream. Fabulous!
The name ‘Omni’ has the potential to confuse. To me at least, the implication is that it will serve an omnivorous menu – meat and vegetables. But owners Jess and George explain that the name was chosen as everyone can eat their food whether they eat meat or not – they want to provide food that everyone can enjoy together.
And true enough, my omnivorous plus one who is unlikely to give up his burgers and steaks anytime soon, loved the meal and walked away with a list of vegetables he wants to try and cook in a different way at home now! Omni really did leave us wondering why vegetables aren’t promoted from the side event to the main event more often?
High-end food in a cosy setting at a great price – it is definitely worth making the trip to Peckham for this one.
- Omni is at 24A Peckham Rye, London SE15 4JR www.theomnicollective.com
