Culture, Clubs, & Carnivorous Feasts in Serbia
The genteel ladies of Belgrade were scandalised when an imposing bronze statue of The Victor was erected in all his naked glory.
They averted their eyes from Victor’s physique as he stood, 46ft (14m) atop a column to rival Nelson’s, brandishing his sword and, let’s face it, showing off his manhood.
The womenfolk preferred not to face it. So, to preserve outraged sensibilities, the city’s governors bowed to their pressure and re-sited Victor to the Belgrade Fort overlooking the River Danube and Sava Rivers to commemorate Serbia’s victory over the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian Empire during the Balkan and First World Wars.
And here he’s stayed, since 1928, a striking emblem of Balkan power and warning to potential invaders.
The Belgrade Fort commemorates Serbia’s victory over the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian Empire during the Balkan and First World Wars.
We witnessed that power as a deafening fly past of war planes and helicopters swooped over Victor in formation of threes, screaming engines vibrating the very ground where we stood.
But the invasion of tourists is welcome.
Rejoicing in its reputation as one of the world’s wildest party destinations buzzing, bustling, boozy Belgrade hosts hen and stag bashes.
The city is liberal and laid back, with a relaxed gay scene, around 3,000 restaurants, cafes and bars and hot clubbing scene.
It still bears a few scars of the Balkan conflict when NATO bombarded targets against the regime of Slobodan Milosevic in 1990. But to the young that is ancient history.
Belgrade is rich in history, hospitality, museums, galleries and architecture where Communist-era concrete eyesores vie with art nouveau and royal palaces.
By appointment you can visit the palace of Crown Prince Alexander II, a godson of our Queen Elizabeth. On our guided tour he wasn’t around to pose for selfies but we saw his private cinema where Tito, the former Communist President and movie fanatic, hosted Liz Taylor and Richard Burton.
Belgrade is rich in history, hospitality, museums, galleries and architecture
A stroll away is the Hyde Park restaurant _ a mix of kitsch and Cath Kidston _ where we feasted on karadordeva snicia, rather like a chicken kiev, but with veal or pork and served with lashings of kajmak, a salty yoghurty cottage cheese that garnishes everything from bread to burgers.
Serbia is carnivore paradise: sausages, grilled meats, goulash and kebabs.
Vegetarians and vegans can just about survive by insisting on posna hrana or meatless food. And don’t worry if you’re lost for unpronounceable Serbian words as most menus offer English translation.
No meal is complete without a glass of rakia, strong spirit flavoured with plum, apricot, quince, apple or raspberry. At up to 60 % proof the fruity flavours are secondary to the overwhelming burning sensation as the liquor hits your throat as you toast ‘ziveli’ or cheers.
We left the home town of tennis star Novak Djokovic to visit Novi Sad, Serbia’s second city.
It’s 2019 European Youth Capital and in 2021 will become the first non-EU country named European Capital of Culture.
And talking of exit, the annual EXIT Festival is the jewel in Novi Sad’s youth culture crown. It exploded into life in 2000, a focus of the young’s hatred of the Milosevic regime, and lasted an insane 100 days. It’s been going strong ever since, attracting 200,000 revellers each July.
Pop, rock and fireworks on the 18th century Petrovaradin Fortress Exit (www.exitfest.org/en) has featured Sex Pistols, Lily Allen, Arctic Monkeys and this year The Cure are on the bill.
I’m booking my tickets!
- For further information about Serbia, visit the National Tourism Organisation of Serbia’s website: www.serbia.travel. Regent Holidays: www.regentholidays.co.uk. Travel The Unknown: www.traveltheunknown.com.
- Getting there to Belgrade: Air Serbia 9 times a week from Heathrow, Wizz Air from Luton 3 times a week and all major European carriers connect to Belgrade.
