Al Fresco Feasting in Pays de Gex

There can’t be many places where you can sip a flute of bubbly, glug just-chucked oysters, sample ‘bleu’ roast beef, taste tempting terrines, savour exotic fruits from Madagascar and try home-made cheese wrapped in birch bark – all before midday in an open air market.

But we discovered one.

And the timing of this al fresco feast could not have been more remarkable.  The Saturday street market at Ferney-Voltaire in the little known French ski region of Pays de Gex was at first banned as Coronavirus tightened its grip on towns and cities throughout Europe.

But the Mayor, maybe mindful of the municipal elections due to be held that Sunday (and risking a reputation at the Mad March Mayor), overrode the order with a proclamation that the historic market must go ahead.

We elbow-bumped our thanks as he proudly showed us around some of the 200 stalls, 150 of which sold foods.  Wonderful wafts of fresh fish, fruit, meats, breads and cheeses assaulted us as we joined the busy bustle of shoppers.

Food stalls were doing a roaring trade, but no pandemic panic buying as would soon be sparked in supermarkets across the world.

Fruiterer Bernard seduced us with succulent fruits from Vietnam, Cameroon, La Reunion.  Fishmonger Florian showed off glistening rows of fish regarding us from their bed of ice.  Master artisan cheesemaker Daniel Michelin, who has a prestigious award to match his posh surname, tempted us with gooey, smelly and scrumptious cheeses, thankfully vacuum packed for flying home without tainting the rest of your suitcase, or attracting unwanted attention from a hungry search dog at Geneva airport.

This was the final day of a whistle-stop ski trip at the start of March to Pays de Gex of just two nights and three activity packed days to prove the boast that this is the nearest resort to an international airport.  Just 20 minutes by car from Geneva Airport, after you’ve whisked through French customs at the Swiss airport, you could be on the slopes to ski downhill or cross-country, snowboard, toboggan or snowshoe.

Such a lightening fast transfer makes this an idea destination for cheaper short breaks, mid-week flights, peaceful ski runs and relaxed restaurants on the slopes of the Jura Mountains.  It still will be,  whatever havoc Coronavirus might wreak on international tourism.

Long gone are the days when I wanted in every last ski, first on the slopes, last off, come blizzard or shine.  My self-indulgent preference now is for great accommodation, delicious regional food, a soupçon of culture, fun activities, a wellness session, friendly and welcoming vibe.  Skiing is on the list, but not at the top.

Pays de Gex ticks all those boxes.

We stayed at an extraordinary hotel that suffered from schizophrenia.  It was under the delusion it was a big game lodge in Africa, its sunny terrace facing the mountains.  Was that Kilimanjaro in the distance?  You could half imagine a giraffe loping across the lawns.

A South African couple had bought the land, intending to build a house for visiting friends. And then, inspired, they thought: why not a hotel?  With a golf course, a helicopter landing pad, 100 acres grounds _but with no sign of the Big Five.  And that imposing peak is Mont Blanc.

Their passion for horses means there’s a seven star stables, with equine images and artwork spread over the five star Hotel Jiva Hill. It’s in the foothills of the Jura Mountains, and boasts a new wing built in January 2020, new restaurant, artificial lake for water skiing, Zen garden with Japanese cherry blossom, outdoor swimming pool and Finnish sauna.  A shuttle whisks you to the ski slopes.

We chose the snowshoeing option, a night-time trek far up to a mountain refuge.

In starlight we brave wolves and lynx, chamois and big wild turkeys, negotiating narrow forest tracks, steep banks and tree roots until, at 1330 metres, we spot candlelight glimmering through the glass of the mountain guides’ shelter.

Sub-zero has my teeth chattering but the welcome is warm.

At the wood-burning stove Carole stirs a pot of three bubbling cheeses for our Fondue Jurasienne, a traditional dish of the Jura Mountains. The table is decorated with pine cones and set with flagons of water and glasses of white wine, chunks of bread to dip into the cheesy mix.

No gourmet meal tasted so good.  Especially with the digestif drink Sapinette, made from young pine shoots soaked in alcohol and sugar for three months and called the Christmas liqueur.

Pays de Gex offers low-key, relaxed skiing and our ski instructor Cyril, a helicopter pilot during summers, was great for confidence-building during our morning on the slopes.  Only one fall,  despite the Friday the Thirteenth date, so we celebrated with a well-earned lunch at Le Yeti, tucking into Tartiflette with potato and salad, followed by crème brulee.

We were wowed by youngsters speed-sweeping down the slalom course, in a blur of eye-watering Lycra, metallic crash helmets and reflective goggles.

Our cross-country skiing saw us gliding through forests, across snowy meadows on impossibly long, skinny skis_ until one of our number took out the instructor in an uncontrolled slide when she  followed his advice to ‘let your skis go’ rather too literally.

Hotel spa time beckoned. What better way to ease tired bodies than a relaxed swim and Finnish sauna before a delicious dinner?

The next morning view from the breakfast dining room was spectacular: Mont Blanc shimmering in the distance, a glistening lake, and sunny terrace with primroses declaring Spring.

Now was our chance for culture: a visit to the elegant building and grounds of Chateau de Ferney-Voltaire, where the famed philosopher spent 20 years, attracting the great minds of the Enlightenment and high society.

Close by is the spa town of Divonne les Bains, named after Goddess Divona, and sited at the gates of the Upper Jura Nature Park. 

 A visit to the thermal spa, with its health-enhancing waters that pummelled and soothed in equal measure, had us raring to go… sadly back to the UK before France, that very evening, closed all her ski resorts, and Switzerland shut her land borders.

FACT BOX

For more information about Pays de Gex Tourism visit www.paysdegex-tourisme.com

Accommodation

Two nights stay at the 5* www.jivahill.com Hotel is priced from £205pp with breakfast, based on two sharing.

Activities

Snowshoeing and dinner in a mountain refuge – Chalet Fore Tier du Chalet Juraventure and the company owner is Nicolas GUITTON  www.juraventure.com/store/randonnees-en-raquette 48€ pp for the guide, snowshoes and meal with wine. Children 16 and under 38€pp

Lift passes start from 19€pp or over 65yrs/ children under 16 years old per day 15€pp per day

Ski lessons www.esf-lelex.fr – 2 hours group lessons from 50€ pp 

Cross country skiing Lessons www.lavatty,fr starts from 25€ pp for lessons for one hour.