Milan Fashion Week is probably our favourite of the big four for its irreverence, passion and its unique style and this season’s shows didn’t disappoint. The big names showed why they remain the labels to be watched, followed and copied. Patterns and prints were gorgeously bold and vibrant and the influence of the hippie era of the late 60s early 70s was obvious on quite a few of the catwalks. Overall the shows were fun and sexy, a lot like London and New York but a lot lighter and softer than it’s counterparts.
Here are our picks of the top 10 shows from Milan.
Stiff leather corsets and waist belts were teamed with long flowing skirts or peasant tops to create a modern gypsy feel. Ruffles, tiered skirts, floor-length gowns and jewelled colours add to the richness of this exotic collection that will work for both young and not so young next spring.
“You know, when you are in love, in a nightclub, but you are not in the right place, the person is not there?” Gucci designer Alessandro Michele said in a backstage preview. We could certainly see the disco leanings but as for being in the wrong place, well at least you’d look good, even if your beau wasn’t there to see you.
Peter Dundas said that he was influenced by the Navajo prints and Scandinavian folk wear in his hippie inspired collection for Roberto Cavalli. Long flowing silks and heavily detailed patterns bring a holiday off-the-grid vibe that many people are craving right now.
Massimo Giorgetti has embraced the prints and colours that are synonymous with the Pucci label and modernised them for a new generation. Body hugging jersey and bright chiffon dresses competed for attention on the runway; both will find their audience come the summer.
“Instead of exploring the history of women, which I have for a while, I decided to take care of now, the present, and trying to find elegance,” Miuccia Prada said backstage. And apart from the graphic prints which definitely looked like they came from the back catalogue, this was a collection that seemed made for the modern global traveller, made so a woman could look and feel good in every situation.
Soft colours and delicate prints provided the perfect palette for the more refined, and perhaps a little more mature, audience. Beatnik sensibilities were obvious but it was Veronica Etro’s art deco nods – as seen it the green dress above – that provided an elegant edge.
To be a Bottega Veneta woman “you need to like something quiet” and to be “a little more cultivated about materials,” explained creative director Tomas Maier. Simple lines, deconstructed silhouettes and post-war hemlines showed how his demure sophistication can really impress.
Ultra feminine and ready for a summer romance, this collection is both modern and timeless. “There is something here for every part of a woman’s life,” Anna Molinari said of her show. And for those of us who maybe cannot afford couture prices, it’s a look we’re sure to see echoed on the high street.
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
Fun flirty and festival chic, designer Lorenzo Serafini has created something is instantly wearable. Serafini said that he was inspired by The Blue Lagoon, the Brooke Shield’s movie from the 80s. The peasant stylings provide a minimalist approach that is both relaxed and comfortable.
Dolce & Gabbana
This was a classic Dolce & Gabbana show that reflected their Italian heritage and renaissance leanings. Modern twists with balloons and ice creams in the prints added to the frivolity while classic old fashioned roses bloomed large on elegant gowns.