New York was all about attitude on the catwalks this year. It portrayed women as tough, independent and edgy, a move away from the feminine shapes and fabrics of the last few seasons.
Tailoring was relaxed and rounded, even slightly masculine, with a mixing of textures from knits, leather and fur to pony skin, satin and metallic fabrics.
Hair trends saw long flowing locks, relatively straight (not poker straight) with a slight bed head roughness to it.
Pointed toe kitten heels in bright colours, knee high and ankle boots were all popular.
Black and White
Black and White is still prominent on the catwalks and while the stripes and 60s feel of this summer has moved on, the clean look of the two colours make it the perfect stand-out colour combination next winter.
Some of the highlights of this could be seen on the runways of BCBG Max Azaria, Edun, Monique Lhullier, Proenza Schouler and Charlotte Ronson.
Calf or ‘pony’ skin was popular on the catwalk and not just in accessories. 3.1 Phillip Lim used a patchwork variety in natural shades while Victoria Beckham created a feminine look by incorporation it into her classically cut dresses.
Helmut Lang added texture to his skirts by using calf skin and Kenneth Cole gave his jackets extra depth by employing it there.
Leather was strong on the catwalk from heavy biker style jackets to buttery sift leathers in tops, skirts and trousers. The majority of leathers were black but there were also some warm autumnal colours and naturals as well. J Mendel and Tocca did full dresses, while Vivienne Tam did tops and Ralph Lauren showed fabulous skater skirts paired with chunky knits.
DKNY kept on the animal theme with their leopard prints.
Black is the new black
A darker side of winter was expressed on every catwalk from simple such as Calvin Klein; sexy such as J Mendel; bohemian like Rachel Zoe; cutting edge at Max Azaria for Herve Leger; sophisticated at Derek Lam and edgy at Edun – so no matter your style, wear it in black!
Think Doctor Zhivago as you wrap up next winter with fur (or faux fur) scarves, hats and snoods completing the look.
Badgley Mischka wrapped and tucked scarves into the waist for a dramatic look while Oscar de la Renta employed heavily brocaded fabrics teamed with fur and a hint of colour. Ralph Lauren went opulent white fur hats and shrugs while Prabal Garung used fur shrugs and snoods teamed with a military look. Snoods and scarves were used by both Reem Acra and Zac Posen to finish off their winter looks.
When colours were used on the catwalk they were bright and rich hues, as they were least year. Fabrics were expensive wool crepes, heavy taffeta and rich satins that create a jewelled look of wealth.
Oscar de la Renta went for red-hot glamour while Narciso Rodriguez used mustard crepe in tailored dresses. Marchesa’s classic 40s style gowns were showstoppers and Rachel Zoe’s top-to-toe claret suit and coat gave a finished polished look. Marc by Marc Jacobs gave a wearable street edge to the look.