Stripped-Back Chic @ Jones Family Affair
Leading London steakhouse The Jones Family Kitchen is already an established go-to in Belgravia, and now the group of friends behind the venture have launched sister restaurant The Jones Family Affair in the heart of theatreland.
Basking behind an unassuming door on Willaim IV Street, just minutes from Trafalgar Square, Covent Garden and London’s thriving theatre district, the restaurant opened in December and has already established itself as a sellout peaktime venue.
Expectations were not high on arrival – we shuffled inside at 6.26pm for our six thirty booking and were told brusquely to stand there by the server on reception duties as she told us we were too early for our table. The fact I was on crutches seemed no issue, and no seat at the bar was offered (although it was to the group behind us who had the audacity to be half an hour early). The tone had not set itself well…
However, ten minutes later we were shown to our front row table by the open kitchen, and our adventure began.
The menu is minimal but varied, and having emerged unscathed from veganuary I spied plenty of plant-based options. Not for us tonight though, Josephine, tonight we were indulging and the Jones Family Affair offered plenty to tempt us. From the succulent scallops starter, to the tender and moist fillet steak, it is clear that quality presides over quantity when it comes to sourcing ingredients and compiling this menu. Meat for the charcoal oven is supplied by the Ginger Pig, the fish is provided by Flying Fish and arrives fresh daily.
Crispy courgette is lightly battered and an ideal sharer to enjoy while exporing the cocktail menu. The duck eggs with mushrooms is served on a homemade potato rosti with is refreshingly light, not oily at all. The scallops were, as mentioned, cooked to perfection and delightfully juicy.
The Jones Family Affair wine list offers two ways to seek out your preferred drink – by country or by style. We went by style and the Malbec Biutiful [sic] was just as its name suggested. Deep, velvety, and delicious.
I supplemented my virtuous Garden Plate – a feast of beetroot hummus, seasonal vegatables and lentils topped with pumpkin seeds and joyously marinated olives – with a warming and indulgent truffle mac and cheese, and I was not disappointed.
My partner’s fillet was sizeable, succulent, and excitedly devoured with a creamy peppercorn sauce and a side of triple-cooked chips.
Having enjoyed relaxed and unrushed meal, our server Angela gave us time and space (our stomachs seemed to have doubled in size since we arrived and we were in no rush to go anywhere) before bringing out the dessert menu. Angela was friendly, offered suggestions when asked, but didn’t overcrowd or impose. It’s the servers that can define a restaurant experience, and ours was one to celebrate by the end of our visit. All impressions resulting from our imperfect start disappeared within moments of being seated, thanks to Angela.
We finally finished our meal with a palette-cleansing (and de-bloating) selection of sorbets, enjoyed against the backdrop of the animated and smiling chefs preparing their plates in the open kitchen. The decor at JFA is stripped back and chic, with pop art adorning the brick walls and exposed pipes running across the ceiling. This is a chilled out place serving first-class food and we can’t wait to go back.
- The Jones Family Affair, 40-42 William IV St | London | WC2N 4DD
