Dining With A Conscience at Island Grill

Sustainability and social conscience are popular buzzwords when it comes to modern dining. But many that claim to be hot on the ethical eatery scene can fall at the first hurdle when inspected more closely.

Not so with the Island Grill in Lancaster Gate though, which has been awarded the Sustainable Restaurant Association’s top Three Star rating and offers a full vegan menu in honour of Veganuary, thanks to Executive Head Chef Daniel McGarey.

The restaurant is a mere ten paces from Lancaster Gate tube station, and forms part of the iconic mid-century Lancaster London hotel. With its own private entrance opposite Hyde Park, Island Grill presents a modern European menu which changes with each season as part of its dedication to sustainability. And this month the regular menu sits alongside a specially created plant-based one, designed to celebrate the growing trend of veganism in London dining.

Decor is simple and sleek on a split-level dining room floor. The design was conceived by Stiff + Trevillion, the talent behind Wagamama and Fakhreldine. With a white limestone exterior and large glass entrance doors, Island Grill creates a striking visual impact on arrival.

Our server showed us to our seats, a huge round table overlooking an entrace to Hyde Park. The floor-to-ceiling windows give the impression of dining on a terrace despite hearing the rain splatter the glass just next to you. In the evenings, the back-lit ceiling panels create a warm ambiance, and the open-plan kitchen design allows diners to view the chefs at work.

The regular menu offers a tempting array of dishes from traditional Fish & Chips to more innovative Confit Pork Belly served with roasted apple, crackling and black pudding. We enjoyed a roasted butternut squash veloute to start followed by a deliciously crisp and fresh Devonshire crab salad with avocado, and pan-fried gnochi with pesto, red onion, and black truffle shavings. All were just the right portion size and presented beautifully.

Vegan dishes include Roast Cauliflower Steak with a Caper and Raisin Dressing; Quinoa and Wild Mushroom Dumplings with Mushroom Consommé; and Crisp Polenta with Winter Tomato Chutney with a Crisp Sage.

Mains are priced around the £15 mark and there’s a good wine list too, with a decent Malbec or Sauvignon Blanc costing around £28.

The service at Island Grill is certainly something to be mentioned. Everyone who entered was immediately greeted by one of the waiting staff, and they were quick to be on hand when we had a question to ask about the menu. As soon as you arrive you feel relaxed and looked after – none of the stuffy hotel vibe you might expect from such a renowned venue.

When it comes to desserts we really were spoilt for choice – had we not overindulged on previous courses then the forty mile cheeseboard (with all cheeses sourced within 40 miles of the hotel) or the clementine cheesecake with pear and cinnamon sorbet would have been top of our list. Vegan options include a chocolate brownie with cranberry sorbet, plum crumble with coconut ice cream; or spiced pear Eton Mess. Sadly we were stuffed, but will be back soon to try them out!

Island Grill is a relaxed and informal destination for a tasty breakfast, brunch, lunch or dinner. The service is second-to-none and the atmosphere is welcoming.

• To see the full menus or book a table, visit www.islandrestaurant.co.uk