The Front Rows have been fierce, the models bitchy and there was controversy (step forward Kanye West) but New York kicked off the Autumn Winter Fashion weeks in style.
So many of the top designers are showing in New York now that it was hard to pick out what was the best for the season however, here are our top 12 designers and the best of the rest…
We’ve said it before but we’ll say it again, Victoria Beckham has proved her metal once again with a really strong showing in New York. Long 40s style ladylike skirts teamed with chunky oversized jumpers, large button details on coats and dressed and a touch of the colour of the moment, orange, in a delightful tangerine shade.
Tibi’s simple lines and pastel hues made the collection soft and cohesive. Once again long straight skirts were teamed with relaxed knits. Trousers were also popular with both tapered leg and culottes being featured at Tibi.
Oscar De La Renta
The first show since the death of Oscar himself was always going to be hard but Peter Copping, who de la Renta hired just before his death, presented a feminine and sophisticated collection that reflected the great designer’s aesthetic. Forties silhouettes, tweed jackets and glamorous ballgowns were de riguer.
Long lean lines, high waisted flared trousers and mostly monochrome was the theme of Rodriguez’ collection. Once again 40s style pencil skirts just below the knee or trousers with a longline jacket lent themselves to daywear whereas maxi deconstructed dresses were present for the evening. Peach was his nod to the orange trend teamed with orange accessories such as bags and bracelets.
Stunning lace, delicate coral chiffons and intricate structured beading made Naeem Khan’s collection an obvious favourite for A-listers on the red carpet and that is exactly who he has targeted this collection for.
Marchesa is another celebrity favourite and these gowns show why. The fringing, ruffles and layered tulle provided grace in movement while the incredibly beading, applique and lace details added a sophisticated style.
Steering away from her pastels of spring summer, Jenny Packham added some deep dark tones of midnight blue, chocolate, aubergine and black to her base of nude, oyster and blush. With her delicate embellishments, it is easy to see why she remains a favourite with the likes of Kate Middleton.
A simple yet striking palette of black, white grey and taupe punctuated with flashes of deep true red were used in spectacular fashion with the way the colours interacted in the schemes of the fabrics. Coats and tops that meld into dresses and skirts were a real highlight and one that the High Street may find a little harder to interpret. Oversized coast and culotte trousers were a noticeable trend.
It was straight from the catwalk to the plane as some of Reem Acra’s creations headed to LA to be worn at one on the many Oscars parties and it was easy to see why. Heavy lace and embroidery gave an exotic, bohemian gilded look to the collection. Blacks, whites, greys and creams features heavily with red the punctuating colour.
From elaborate evening wear in rich metallic brocades, dove egg lamé and sumptuous satin to daytime boucle trenches and checked blanket coats Mark Badgley and James Mischka offered a wide variety that lent heavily on the golden age of movies. Lace tights, lamé and trouser suits for night and day are trends that we hope to see in the stores next autumn.
Straight silhouettes with crisp lines and little embellishment, a neutral palette of black, grey white and cream punctuated only with multiple shades of orange from Titian through to tangerine and carrot were the highlights of Nepalese designer Prabal Gurung. Duffle jackets and big knits with top toe colour shows how we can adopt this look next autumn.
Ralph Lauren models seemed to represent when city goes country on the catwalk this season. Staying with neutral shades, pant suits and tweeds teamed with Ushanka’s and wide-brim felt hats gave the looks an urban weekender feel.
Best of the rest…
It was a busy New York fashion week with so many fabulous shows to see. These ones all meritted special mentions – Dennis Basso, Anna Sui, Michael Kors, Derek Lam, BCBG Max Azria, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Nanette Lepore and Monique Lhullier.
The silhouettes and oft gothic edge of Calvin Klein, Edun, Tamara Mellon, Herve Leger, Donna Karan (with fabulous shearling jacket that we want right now!), Vera Wang and Polo Ralph Lauren were also something we are certain to see toward the end of 2015.