Paris wound up the main fashion weeks in classical style as the French couture houses presented their ready to wear collections for Autumn Winter. Feminine yet powerful they reflected the multiple aspects of the modern day woman.
Here are our picks of the top 10 shows from Paris:
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli combined classical 50s shapes, flowing fabrics and bejewelled embellishments to reflect the cultural influences in a show that demonstrated why Valentino is still held in such high regard for their beautiful gowns. “We always think fashion is cultural, not just about delivering clothes. I really love fashion,” Maria said. And it shows.
Karl Lagerfeld took Chanel back to it’s roots with a classical runway show that transcended the years. From traditional boucle suiting, and layering of pearls, a mainly monochrome palette and the use of the Chanel camellia, Lagerfeld paid homage to Coco herself while remaining relevant and modern.
The Brit designer presented a collection that was both practical and whimsical. From silk and lace slipdresses and printed chiffons to warm puffer jackets, cosy knits and unique suiting she gave her customers something for every occasion.
Puffy sleeves, high collars and satin harped back to the decadent 80s when the yuppies were in full flight but then there were other influences as well. Forties glam of a fur stole over a floor length cocktail dress, 70s velvet jackets over maxi skirts, 90s glamazonian power dressing and millennial soft tailoring and fabrics. It wasn’t particularly cohesive as a collection but individual outfits did impress.
It might be a diffusion line but the younger, cooler sibling of Prada is beginning to look all grown up. Still edgy and irreverent, Miuccia Prada 80s shapes and 70s fabrics made it also feel retrospective, of fashion warriors reflecting on the fun eras of less austere times. Belted tweed blazers, fine knits mixed with maxi skirts and oiled jackets were a nod to country cool that countered the taffeta town dresses.
Valli’s floaty chiffon dresses and gowns looked right at home in the French capital encapsulating Parisian style. With sophistication, femininity and a muted palette it’s easy to see why Amal Clooney turns to this designer for her wardrobe.
With no current creative director, studio heads Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux kept true to the Christian Dior aesthetic presenting an elegant and streamlined collection. Soft tailoring, simple lines and minimal embellishing made it a very wearable selection that holds the label in good stead.
Blogger and fashpack favourite Elie Saab always provides extraordinary gowns however his latest collection has a more bohemian feel than past red carpet offerings. Still beautifully accentuating the female form, still stunningly crafted and still ultra feminine, this will appeal to the Coachella and Glastonbury girls who still like to make an impression.
Ancient Egypt inspired Riccardo Tisci’s current collection. From iconography to mosaic prints, he employed the graphics extensively and to great effect. “Egypt for me is like the beginning of everything, for writers, for food, for everything,” Tisci said backstage. “It’s been a long time that I’ve wanted to do this collection.”
Mouret himself revealed that his collection was inspired by the care-free, avante-garde era when Kate Bush and Stevie Nicks were in their prime however it didn’t lose his impeccable cut and tailoring for form figured dresses. Velvet, long lines and block colouring all featured predominantly on the runway in a collection that will sure to sell well amongst Mouret aficionados.