Not all of us have had the pleasure of enjoying the surrounds of private members club Blacks set in a gorgeous Georgian house with its eclectic Baroque touches in the heart of Soho. But owner Giuseppe Mascoli is on a mission to reinvent the Sunday lunch and is opening his doors to non-members for the occasion. With a host of the nation’s foodies lining up to give him a hand, the kitchens of this stunning 18th century townhouse are producing regular multi-course feasts that will have your tastebuds and bellies satisfied.
Earlier this month Mail on Sunday and Tatler food writer (and Prince William’s stepbrother!) Tom Parker Bowles took control of the kitchen to entice us with fresh contemporary Mexican food. He was ably ‘assisted’ by Blacks head chef Alberto Figueroa, himself Mexican. And it was just as well, the guestlist was made up of Mexican food aficionados! The Mexican ambassador Eduardo Medina-Mora Icaza, his wife Laura and other guests from the Mexican embassy were in attendance as well as actress Cleo Rocos who is now known as the Tequila Queen of the UK and Masterchef winner Thomasina Miers who has gone on to open Mexican restaurants Wahaca.
When we arrived we headed to Blacks cozy, darkened downstairs bar. The rich and intimate surrounds made us feel as if we were visiting someone’s house for a wonderful dinner party. Although it had just gone 1pm and I hadn’t yet had my first coffee for the day, I got into the spirit of the event by joining my fellow guests for a Margarita. We moved upstairs into the Black’s lounge and dining rooms, each with a fireplace roaring keeping out the rainy February weather. With Tom’s sister Laura, Thomasina, Cleo and the Mexican officials all joining us in the snug room we settled in for the long haul of a leisurely lunch.
We started with a spectacular sea bream ceviche gently cured with citrus and served with tostadas, guacamole and salsa. This was followed by cheese and chicken and chorizo quesadillas. I was desperately trying not too overindulge as I knew there were more taste sensations to come. The mains were a melt-in-the-mouth Chochinita Pibil, slow roasted pork with orange and achiote and wrapped in banana leaves and Drunken Lamb that had been marinated in a beer and chili sauce. These were served with traditional accompaniments including black beans and salsa. The hibiscus and tequila sorbet was a refreshing end to the meal.
Tom and Alberto had not only provided us with an unusual, appetizing and elaborate Sunday lunch but the fabulous mix of personalities on the day made it fun and unique and I look forward to forgoing the usual roast, potatoes and Yorkshire pud in the pursuit of further epicurean affairs.
To take part in future Bacchanalian feasts call Blacks on 020 7287 3381 to make a booking. Priced at £35 per head, lunch is served from 1pm to 5pm.
Blacks, 67 Dean Street, W1D 4QH, 020 7287 3381